Inspired by my friend and colleague, Laurel, I am slowing returning to an old practice: Looking for signs. Thanks Laurel! I was going to leave Costa Rica this week, and was going to change my flight at any moment, when something changed my mind. I was cutting vegetables for dinner in the common area of this hostel in Quepos, (where we have been too long, waiting for medical supplies to be shipped here for me), when a quiet voice with an English accent said, "So how is your trip going?" I looked up-- there were only two of us--and responded, "Well, it's the end of my trip, actually. I'm headed home." I was engaged in conversation by a "professional vagabond", a young man who had been traveling Costa Rica for nine years, helping out on farms and generating creative solutions for their businesses.
He said that Quepos was one of his two least favorite spots in Costa Rica, the other being Jaco. I felt such great relief-- I wasn't crazy-- it wasn't just me! I then asked him what his most favorite spots were. He described a chocolate farm only a bit inland, at a higher elevation. I am a bit of a chocolate conniseur (yes, I know this is misspelled, but spellcheck doesn't work on this computer), and I relished hearing a description of chocolate manufacturing on the farm.
The conversation was rounded up by his offer to barter some chocolate in his possession for a bit of massage. A spot on his back bothers him chronically, and he hadn't been able to hit it since someone stole his backnobber. I was delighted-- of course I would! I was handed a bag of cocoa powder, a bag of very spicey ginger, and some cocoa butter. It's still not as strong as what I'm used to, but it's fortifying and delicious. Chocolate is a superfood, loaded with antioxidants and iron,and other minerals, if not overprocessed and loaded with sugar. This meeting was an omen for me.
I finished reading The Count of Monte Cristo by Alexander Dumas, finally. I really enjoyed it. The messages of the book are thus: As long as there exists the possibility that we will one day be happy, life is worth living. And, "Only a man who has felt ultimate despair is capable of feeling ultimate bliss." I'm not quite in agreement with this latter idea, although I heartily support the idea of contrast in order to clarify one's desires in life. But I can most certainly transpose the former idea on to my travel experience. And I'm going to stay here a bit longer.
Saturday, March 27, 2010
Friday, March 26, 2010
Adventures, Part Six--Mostly Food
I just had a really good massage, by another local transplant named Todd. Actually, half the reason that the massage was really good was that Todd and his girlfriend, along with his beautiful house, have a really awesome vibe. Todd reminded me, by example, to stay in the present moment and be grateful. I know the reader has probably heard this a million times, but I needed to hear it badly. I am remembering some of my favorite literature back home that says that I, in particular, need to practice gratitude, no matter what experience I am having. I must keep coming back to this practice, my foremost "religion".
I feel very grateful for Todd and his girlfriend, and their inspiration, that's for sure. And I think part of my distress here in Costa Rica has probably been ongoing dehydration as well as a possible calcium deficiency... either of these things can make one feel very low in energy, in a fog, as well as chronically tense physically.
The following is a contribution from Loic on the cuisine in Costa Rica:
So far, most of the time, we have stayed in hostels equipped with communal kitchens, where we prepare our meals. Actually, Rachel has been doing most of the cooking. I love her cooking; it's always simple, imaginative, and healthy. I don't cook as much. I admit, I love being taken care of by Rachel for my substantiation. Several people and friends we have met on this trip shared the same enthusiasm about Rachel's ability and ease around food.
Once in a while we visit low-cost eateries called "sodas" (nothing to do with the drink), and enjoy typical food. The most popular dish in this country seems to be the "casados". This consists of one base meat or fish accompanied by small sides such as pasta salad, plantains (fried), rice, a few lettuce and tomatoes, cauliflower (maybe), and beans. All these come on one plate and are intended to provide a full meal. In some places a drink is also included, which is usually a fruit smoothie/drink made with water and is called "naturales". It costs a little more to have it made with milk. We enjoy naturales very much, and get one pretty often. The most refreshing flavors are watermelon, cantelope, and guanabana (another tropical fruit), though we must make sure to ask for only a little sugar or sugar on the side.
Another popular dish is the sopa negra, or black bean soup, cooked with a poached egg or two, and vegetable bits. Of course, fish is very common, as well as pasta. We tried tacos; here they are more like Mexican flautus, meat wrapped in a thin tortilla and deep fried. Usually they are served buried under shredded cabbage and sauced up with mayonnaise, mustard, and ketchup. French fries are also often covered with these condiments.
One peculiar thing is that we cannot find real chocolate in this country. It's all labelled "chocolate flavored". There are no lemons as well. Instead, they have different varieties of lime, including one that looks like an unripe orange.
Rachel's addition: Food choices are more limited generally, unless you want to pay tourist prices at the hot restaurant spots. Green leafy vegetables wilt fast in this climate-- so we have ended up eating a lot of cabbage, cucumbers, and parsley. Very little organics here. Bananas and coffee are plentiful and cheap, since they are some of Costa Rica's top crops, along with palm oil.
I feel very grateful for Todd and his girlfriend, and their inspiration, that's for sure. And I think part of my distress here in Costa Rica has probably been ongoing dehydration as well as a possible calcium deficiency... either of these things can make one feel very low in energy, in a fog, as well as chronically tense physically.
The following is a contribution from Loic on the cuisine in Costa Rica:
So far, most of the time, we have stayed in hostels equipped with communal kitchens, where we prepare our meals. Actually, Rachel has been doing most of the cooking. I love her cooking; it's always simple, imaginative, and healthy. I don't cook as much. I admit, I love being taken care of by Rachel for my substantiation. Several people and friends we have met on this trip shared the same enthusiasm about Rachel's ability and ease around food.
Once in a while we visit low-cost eateries called "sodas" (nothing to do with the drink), and enjoy typical food. The most popular dish in this country seems to be the "casados". This consists of one base meat or fish accompanied by small sides such as pasta salad, plantains (fried), rice, a few lettuce and tomatoes, cauliflower (maybe), and beans. All these come on one plate and are intended to provide a full meal. In some places a drink is also included, which is usually a fruit smoothie/drink made with water and is called "naturales". It costs a little more to have it made with milk. We enjoy naturales very much, and get one pretty often. The most refreshing flavors are watermelon, cantelope, and guanabana (another tropical fruit), though we must make sure to ask for only a little sugar or sugar on the side.
Another popular dish is the sopa negra, or black bean soup, cooked with a poached egg or two, and vegetable bits. Of course, fish is very common, as well as pasta. We tried tacos; here they are more like Mexican flautus, meat wrapped in a thin tortilla and deep fried. Usually they are served buried under shredded cabbage and sauced up with mayonnaise, mustard, and ketchup. French fries are also often covered with these condiments.
One peculiar thing is that we cannot find real chocolate in this country. It's all labelled "chocolate flavored". There are no lemons as well. Instead, they have different varieties of lime, including one that looks like an unripe orange.
Rachel's addition: Food choices are more limited generally, unless you want to pay tourist prices at the hot restaurant spots. Green leafy vegetables wilt fast in this climate-- so we have ended up eating a lot of cabbage, cucumbers, and parsley. Very little organics here. Bananas and coffee are plentiful and cheap, since they are some of Costa Rica's top crops, along with palm oil.
Monday, March 22, 2010
Adventures, Part 5
We finally left Los Alemendros, and our current residence is in a small, yet still well touristed town South on the Pacific coast called Quepos. Our ultimate destination is meant to be a mountain called Cerro Chirropo, where Loic can climb to the top and feel like a man, and I can hang around the hotel and enjoy cooler weather, maybe even visit a nearby reserve that supposedly has some stunning waterfalls.
The bus ride was pleasant enough, as far as bus journeys here go. It´s the cheapest way to travel, and they have a very sophisticated bus system. Although most busses, to my knowledge, have no airconditioning, and much to my bafflement, no bathrooms! And I´ve been on busrides as long as five hours, with only one pitstop. I am very grateful that I haven´t been desperate for a pitstop. And I actually slept a little sitting upright, something I very rarely do.
Quepos is a halfway point on our journey, and we heard there was good snorkelling here, so I agreed to stay for a bit longer in the heat. Quepos, like many towns, is dirty. And like many coastal towns, is full of foreign tourists. Actually, all of Costa Rica is full of tourists, really. It´s a small country of four million, and it seems like at any one time one quarter of that are foreigners. It´s a bizarre situation.
We took this snorkel tour on a small boat. There were two snorkel spots to visit, and then another beautious sunset to watch on the way back to the shore. I had low expectations of seeing anything, because of the destruction to the reefs, which conservationists are currently battling, and also because of some nay-sayers in town. I jumped off the boat and into the water, and lo and behold, we were surrounded by tropical fish, which we wouldn´t have seen had we not had the snorkel masks.
I have had some significant difficulty acquiring my diabetic supplies here, and there is a lot of red tape to get through if one wants to have medicines shipped into the country. And did I mention that postal theft is quite common, too? Luckily, there are some options of another insulin I can take, and so far it´s been working well enough in my insulin pump. Because my good friend Michele has attempted to send me some strips for my bloodtesting monitor, we´ve got to stick around this town for a little while. As long as I am with Loic it´s worth it right now. I feel lucky.
Yesterday I gave Loic a short massage on one of the picnic tables in the hostel we are staying at. He enjoyed it immensely, and I felt good practicising my skill and using my muscles. Then he gave me a brief massage on my legs and neck... he´s a natural and very good.
I feel ready to go home. I´ve let go of the novel concept of working on a farm, since I have been so physically challenged. This trip has been pretty rough on me physically and emotionally, and if I want to recuperate in order to enjoy myself when we visit Loic´s family for a month in June, I know that I need to be in Chicago for at least a month. So, it´s a question of when we can leave for the mountains, and then head back to San Jose or Alajuela, the latter of which is actually closer to the airport, and is supposed to be a lot nicer.
Next year I may actually visit Los Almendros again, which I consider a treasure, and have it be a briefer trip with better preparation!
The bus ride was pleasant enough, as far as bus journeys here go. It´s the cheapest way to travel, and they have a very sophisticated bus system. Although most busses, to my knowledge, have no airconditioning, and much to my bafflement, no bathrooms! And I´ve been on busrides as long as five hours, with only one pitstop. I am very grateful that I haven´t been desperate for a pitstop. And I actually slept a little sitting upright, something I very rarely do.
Quepos is a halfway point on our journey, and we heard there was good snorkelling here, so I agreed to stay for a bit longer in the heat. Quepos, like many towns, is dirty. And like many coastal towns, is full of foreign tourists. Actually, all of Costa Rica is full of tourists, really. It´s a small country of four million, and it seems like at any one time one quarter of that are foreigners. It´s a bizarre situation.
We took this snorkel tour on a small boat. There were two snorkel spots to visit, and then another beautious sunset to watch on the way back to the shore. I had low expectations of seeing anything, because of the destruction to the reefs, which conservationists are currently battling, and also because of some nay-sayers in town. I jumped off the boat and into the water, and lo and behold, we were surrounded by tropical fish, which we wouldn´t have seen had we not had the snorkel masks.
I have had some significant difficulty acquiring my diabetic supplies here, and there is a lot of red tape to get through if one wants to have medicines shipped into the country. And did I mention that postal theft is quite common, too? Luckily, there are some options of another insulin I can take, and so far it´s been working well enough in my insulin pump. Because my good friend Michele has attempted to send me some strips for my bloodtesting monitor, we´ve got to stick around this town for a little while. As long as I am with Loic it´s worth it right now. I feel lucky.
Yesterday I gave Loic a short massage on one of the picnic tables in the hostel we are staying at. He enjoyed it immensely, and I felt good practicising my skill and using my muscles. Then he gave me a brief massage on my legs and neck... he´s a natural and very good.
I feel ready to go home. I´ve let go of the novel concept of working on a farm, since I have been so physically challenged. This trip has been pretty rough on me physically and emotionally, and if I want to recuperate in order to enjoy myself when we visit Loic´s family for a month in June, I know that I need to be in Chicago for at least a month. So, it´s a question of when we can leave for the mountains, and then head back to San Jose or Alajuela, the latter of which is actually closer to the airport, and is supposed to be a lot nicer.
Next year I may actually visit Los Almendros again, which I consider a treasure, and have it be a briefer trip with better preparation!
Adventures, Part 4
Well, well, well... Did I mention it´s hot here? Believe it or not, I never expected it be as hot as it is. The travel guides I have read talk about the variety of climates, which is true, but not how brutal the heat can be on the coast. What was I thinking? We ARE ten degrees away from the equator, and the sun rises and sets very quickly, lingering high in the sky a bit longer. I am actually missing Chicago, which I have been recently told, was 65 Farenheit the other day, and now in the middle of a snow storm.
On a softer note, at Los Almendros I truly experienced the rhythm of the moon, where I´ve had the luxury of spending virtually all my time outside, although at the mercy of the weather, and in close contact with the ocean. I intimately know the tides through the moon´s phases, and how the beach changes as a result. I watched hermit crabs migrate under full-moon light, then the ocean became tranquil and the jungle, normally cacaphanous at night, became mute under the dark and new moon. I watched the insects around us change in similar fashion.
I never expected that I would be almost deliriously tired so much of the time.. the universed took my intention of slowing down a bit to the extreme. My diabetes and my age must be affecting my heat and humidity tolerance. I am looking forward to being in another climate where it feels good to get my heart rate sped up....
It´s amazing to think how bugs used to drive me crazy with fear, paranoia, annoyance-- and how much calmer I am about them now. I have watched Loic catch and release everything from scorpions, a tarantula, to huge cockroaches--even ants, in his refusal to kill anything, with the exception of mosquitoes. There are a huge variety of ants here, and two of the tiniest will bite, too. I am a bit less of a pacifist than he is.
Last night Loic and I were invited home to dinner by Nuria, a Tica who is employed on the property of Los Almendros. If I am to believe what Lonely Planet says, this is considered a great honor. The Ticos are very friendly, but it could take a long while to be invited home, if ever. I feel honored anyway. We ate a fish bought from a local fisherman, baked on hot coals in the ground of her and her boyfriend´s backyard. Her boyfriend, Juan Carlos, is the carpenter responsible for building all the beautiful wood buildings, and the cement and tiled bathhouse and extraneous bathrooms. The fish was served with baked sweet plaintains, stuffed with a typical cheese, a vegetable salad, and the ever-present rice. Costa Rican food is a mixture of Carribean food and the foods of the Spanish Conquistadores. Costa Rican beer was also served.
A family of Mapeches, or Racoons, silently appeared after our dinner, expecting to be fed along with the cats. Nuria has been feeding them, and I wonder if that is why they have left our kitchenhouse alone.
Before we sat down to eat, a young Boa Constrictor crawled under their outdoor washing machine-- my first sighting, but Loic´s third. I spotted my first Basilisk lizard earlier in the afternoon while in the hammock. I walked into the toilet, and another Basilisk was just sitting their about to leave out the window. Only a few feet away from me, we stared at eachother for a few minutes. It felt like encountering an alien.
It´s really exciting to me to spot these creatures that usually prefer to stay hidden. I think a lot of tourists will flock to the national parks or reserves loaded with their binoculars, and still miss most of the wild life--because of a refusal to slow down and be quiet and look carefully and listen. All I´ve had to do is lie in my hammock and the wild life just shows up. I think some people never get to see the Blue Morfo, and yet I´ve seen countless of these huge, ethereal butterflies. Learning to look and see and listen are priceless skills. One reason to cherish my inability to do
much more.
I feel closer than ever to Loic. People told me this would happen, but I doubted that it would, what with the tension that travel can create in couples or even traveling companions. While there are still things to be worked out between us, I feel so joyful and deeply happy to be with him. Just as he kissed me after lunch today, a stunning Blue Morfo glided by us, and I felt that we were being given a blessing from Spirit.
On a softer note, at Los Almendros I truly experienced the rhythm of the moon, where I´ve had the luxury of spending virtually all my time outside, although at the mercy of the weather, and in close contact with the ocean. I intimately know the tides through the moon´s phases, and how the beach changes as a result. I watched hermit crabs migrate under full-moon light, then the ocean became tranquil and the jungle, normally cacaphanous at night, became mute under the dark and new moon. I watched the insects around us change in similar fashion.
I never expected that I would be almost deliriously tired so much of the time.. the universed took my intention of slowing down a bit to the extreme. My diabetes and my age must be affecting my heat and humidity tolerance. I am looking forward to being in another climate where it feels good to get my heart rate sped up....
It´s amazing to think how bugs used to drive me crazy with fear, paranoia, annoyance-- and how much calmer I am about them now. I have watched Loic catch and release everything from scorpions, a tarantula, to huge cockroaches--even ants, in his refusal to kill anything, with the exception of mosquitoes. There are a huge variety of ants here, and two of the tiniest will bite, too. I am a bit less of a pacifist than he is.
Last night Loic and I were invited home to dinner by Nuria, a Tica who is employed on the property of Los Almendros. If I am to believe what Lonely Planet says, this is considered a great honor. The Ticos are very friendly, but it could take a long while to be invited home, if ever. I feel honored anyway. We ate a fish bought from a local fisherman, baked on hot coals in the ground of her and her boyfriend´s backyard. Her boyfriend, Juan Carlos, is the carpenter responsible for building all the beautiful wood buildings, and the cement and tiled bathhouse and extraneous bathrooms. The fish was served with baked sweet plaintains, stuffed with a typical cheese, a vegetable salad, and the ever-present rice. Costa Rican food is a mixture of Carribean food and the foods of the Spanish Conquistadores. Costa Rican beer was also served.
A family of Mapeches, or Racoons, silently appeared after our dinner, expecting to be fed along with the cats. Nuria has been feeding them, and I wonder if that is why they have left our kitchenhouse alone.
Before we sat down to eat, a young Boa Constrictor crawled under their outdoor washing machine-- my first sighting, but Loic´s third. I spotted my first Basilisk lizard earlier in the afternoon while in the hammock. I walked into the toilet, and another Basilisk was just sitting their about to leave out the window. Only a few feet away from me, we stared at eachother for a few minutes. It felt like encountering an alien.
It´s really exciting to me to spot these creatures that usually prefer to stay hidden. I think a lot of tourists will flock to the national parks or reserves loaded with their binoculars, and still miss most of the wild life--because of a refusal to slow down and be quiet and look carefully and listen. All I´ve had to do is lie in my hammock and the wild life just shows up. I think some people never get to see the Blue Morfo, and yet I´ve seen countless of these huge, ethereal butterflies. Learning to look and see and listen are priceless skills. One reason to cherish my inability to do
much more.
I feel closer than ever to Loic. People told me this would happen, but I doubted that it would, what with the tension that travel can create in couples or even traveling companions. While there are still things to be worked out between us, I feel so joyful and deeply happy to be with him. Just as he kissed me after lunch today, a stunning Blue Morfo glided by us, and I felt that we were being given a blessing from Spirit.
Saturday, March 13, 2010
Adventures Part 3, Link to Photos!
Here is the link to photos on Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2056466&id=1395797881&l=bae23b99be
The last few weeks have been like a dream. I have felt at times that I wanted to wake up from it, and at times I felt that I wanted it to keep going on. I developed a fast bond with another woman named Letitia, also living at Los Almendros. We both feel that we must have known eachother in a past life, sharing a passion for shamanism and women's spirituality/paganism. She is a dynamic, ambitious, entrepreneurial, enthusiastic and empowered person, similar to Danielle. Letitia has a really strong mastery of money, and runs her own businesses-- a horse ranch and an alternative school for children in Vermont.
She eventually introduced me to NonViolent Communication, or NVC, or some call it and I prefer to call it, Compassionate Communication. It is a way to express oneself, make sure everyone is heard, and make sure everyone's needs are being met ongoingly-- without alienation but instead maintaining deep connection to eachother and oneself. My deep desire to find help for Loic and I during this trip had manifested!
Ironically, the tension between Loic and I escalated during the time that we were spending time with Danielle and Letitia, and later I realized that a lot of it had to do with him feeling unconnected to "girl stuff" and feeling left out and bored, and as a result restless and wanting to move on to other places. We had a blow up where he left in the night and I had no idea where he was going or if I would see him again.
Before this happened, the four of us took a road trip to a town about 30 miles away-- which means a 4 to 5 hour trip in Costa Rica unless you're lucky and get a paved road. Danielle and Letitia had appointments with a world famous healer in Playa Samara, a popular beach town like Montezuma. We drove up into the hills, into farm and ranching country, and far away from other tourists, at 5:45 a.m., just as the sun rose, sparkling, over the ocean. We prayed that the Four Wheel Drive rental would make it through the rocks and up steep inclines and down, through the rivers--gratefully low in the dry season.
Whenever we passed a vista we would sigh, and whenever we passed a rancher or farmer we made sure we were going in the right direction. Roads and towns are not always listed on the maps, and there are often no signs. Loic, the most fluent in Spanish, was gracious enough to get out and ask for directions when we needed it.
Coming home, we passed a beach just South of the town, called Playa Carillo. This long stretch of beach had absolutely no one on it until the very end, where one hotel had been erected. As yet a nearly undeveloped piece of paradise-- like a dream. We continued home on the coastal route, and made it safely back, full of road dust.
Letitia and Danielle left for the States the day after Loic left, and I spent three and a half days alone at Los Almendros. I missed Loic badly, and missed him sleeping in the bed with me, but the alone time was good and I enjoyed it. When he returned he had stories for me of his travels to a town South on the coast, and I felt an even stronger bond with him than ever. Another woman who arrived at Los Almendros is a Couples Counselor, and she told me that it is so important how well a couple fights, and how well they make up. The "fight" could have been better, but the making up was excellent, and we both were able to create a lot of peace for eachother.
Despite my resistance, I am still speaking Spanish. I continue to watch sunrises and sunsets on the beach that I have almost entirely to myself. Gumercindo, one of the groundskeepers, brought me manzanas de agua, or water apple, which are like a cross between an apple and a pear. I watched a treetrimmer named Octavio climb the very high coconut palms and bring down young coconuts (they will fall and cause damage to humans and structures, otherwise). He showed me his handmade treeclimbing boots and machete, with leather case, and cut open a number of coconuts to pour me a pitcherful of agua de pipa.
Dona Marina, the owner's mother, introduced me to the Ylang Ylang tree near her house. The smell of the fresh Ylang Ylang flower is heavenly, and the essential oils of this flower I have smelled absolutely pale in comparison. Nurea, the other groundskeeper, brought us homemade Sopa Verdura, and it was amazing. I tried to emulate it, and we will all eat it tonite. We'll see if it is as good!
Hasta Luego!
The last few weeks have been like a dream. I have felt at times that I wanted to wake up from it, and at times I felt that I wanted it to keep going on. I developed a fast bond with another woman named Letitia, also living at Los Almendros. We both feel that we must have known eachother in a past life, sharing a passion for shamanism and women's spirituality/paganism. She is a dynamic, ambitious, entrepreneurial, enthusiastic and empowered person, similar to Danielle. Letitia has a really strong mastery of money, and runs her own businesses-- a horse ranch and an alternative school for children in Vermont.
She eventually introduced me to NonViolent Communication, or NVC, or some call it and I prefer to call it, Compassionate Communication. It is a way to express oneself, make sure everyone is heard, and make sure everyone's needs are being met ongoingly-- without alienation but instead maintaining deep connection to eachother and oneself. My deep desire to find help for Loic and I during this trip had manifested!
Ironically, the tension between Loic and I escalated during the time that we were spending time with Danielle and Letitia, and later I realized that a lot of it had to do with him feeling unconnected to "girl stuff" and feeling left out and bored, and as a result restless and wanting to move on to other places. We had a blow up where he left in the night and I had no idea where he was going or if I would see him again.
Before this happened, the four of us took a road trip to a town about 30 miles away-- which means a 4 to 5 hour trip in Costa Rica unless you're lucky and get a paved road. Danielle and Letitia had appointments with a world famous healer in Playa Samara, a popular beach town like Montezuma. We drove up into the hills, into farm and ranching country, and far away from other tourists, at 5:45 a.m., just as the sun rose, sparkling, over the ocean. We prayed that the Four Wheel Drive rental would make it through the rocks and up steep inclines and down, through the rivers--gratefully low in the dry season.
Whenever we passed a vista we would sigh, and whenever we passed a rancher or farmer we made sure we were going in the right direction. Roads and towns are not always listed on the maps, and there are often no signs. Loic, the most fluent in Spanish, was gracious enough to get out and ask for directions when we needed it.
Coming home, we passed a beach just South of the town, called Playa Carillo. This long stretch of beach had absolutely no one on it until the very end, where one hotel had been erected. As yet a nearly undeveloped piece of paradise-- like a dream. We continued home on the coastal route, and made it safely back, full of road dust.
Letitia and Danielle left for the States the day after Loic left, and I spent three and a half days alone at Los Almendros. I missed Loic badly, and missed him sleeping in the bed with me, but the alone time was good and I enjoyed it. When he returned he had stories for me of his travels to a town South on the coast, and I felt an even stronger bond with him than ever. Another woman who arrived at Los Almendros is a Couples Counselor, and she told me that it is so important how well a couple fights, and how well they make up. The "fight" could have been better, but the making up was excellent, and we both were able to create a lot of peace for eachother.
Despite my resistance, I am still speaking Spanish. I continue to watch sunrises and sunsets on the beach that I have almost entirely to myself. Gumercindo, one of the groundskeepers, brought me manzanas de agua, or water apple, which are like a cross between an apple and a pear. I watched a treetrimmer named Octavio climb the very high coconut palms and bring down young coconuts (they will fall and cause damage to humans and structures, otherwise). He showed me his handmade treeclimbing boots and machete, with leather case, and cut open a number of coconuts to pour me a pitcherful of agua de pipa.
Dona Marina, the owner's mother, introduced me to the Ylang Ylang tree near her house. The smell of the fresh Ylang Ylang flower is heavenly, and the essential oils of this flower I have smelled absolutely pale in comparison. Nurea, the other groundskeeper, brought us homemade Sopa Verdura, and it was amazing. I tried to emulate it, and we will all eat it tonite. We'll see if it is as good!
Hasta Luego!
Monday, March 1, 2010
The Adventure Continues
Let me begin this entry by cautioning the reader that I have not necessarily been recounting our journey chronologically-- if anyone would like clarification, please feel free to comment or email me.
With that said, our journey through Costa Rican towns chronologically has been thus: San Jose, in the hills- La Fortuna and then the ranching town of Tilaran, then traveling through Puntarenas, where we caught the ferry to the Nicoya Peninsula on the Pacific coast to end up in the largely hippie/ beachbum/ and rasta town of Montezuma. We are currently situated halfway between Montezuma and the outpost town of Cabuya, on the Southern most tip of the Peninsula. In the past two weeks we have lived constantly about 30 meters away from the ocean.
Already I am feeling like a different person. It's hard to be able to convey everything.
Many days went by, along the coast here, where it was too hot to do much; getting hot by 8 a.m., and not cooling off until about 5 p.m. Some days it wouldn't peacefully cool off until the wee hours of the morning. One can begin to understand the "art of doing nothing", as the Italians say, which has been fine with me as I've been too tired and lie in a hammock in the shade if I can.
In Montezuma, Danielle took us to see two waterfalls, both with cold, fresh water, and they felt so refreshing. The ocean does too, but it's still pretty warm, and then one wants to rinse off the salt. One of the waterfalls is called, "La Cascada de Los Piedras Coloradas", or the Waterfall of the Colored Stones, and they are amazing gems. The entire shore line is one big treasure chest, filled with amazing stones and crystals, and shells of all varieties, including pukas and other items with naturally formed holes. So many wear the sea of jewels on themselves.
We met a meditation teacher, who ended up privately guiding us (Loic and I) in meditation at dusk on the beaches, daily for about a week. I was so delighted that Loic went out of his way to participate in this, without any prompting from me. This fulfilled a secret dream of mine for Loic and I to meditate together, and I hope that we can pick it up again, soon. The first or second time we meditated with Mateo, it was a larger group sit at Viktoras Kulvinskas'house in the hills (the raw food guru and Danielle's mentor and employer here--she's been his personal assistant). We had another, although distant, view of the ocean on this open hut-like veranda, and it was the first time in years that I had a floating sensation, and transcendant perception of consciousness while meditating.
At one point during the meditation I peeked at Loic, who was sitting next to me, and saw his hands resting on his knees. He looked very beautiful. I don't think I could have been happier, more peaceful, or felt more alive at that point. I began to cry towards the end, out of joy, and as we were completing, Danielles' kitten "Puma" crawled onto my lap and fell asleep. It was all such a precious gift.
I feel that I have been detoxifying in my mind and body. Where we are staying is called, "Estudio Los Almendros", and the owner has let us rent one of the tiny screened in cabins. This is my sanctuary in the jungle. We have been greeted just outside of our "hut" by families of Howler and Capuchin Monkeys, and one day a group of Agouti, which is a brite orange-brown cross between a ground hog and a wombat. And the iguanas, geckos, other lizards on the trees and ground-- everywhere. Last night while preparing dinner in the kitchen house, a tarantula crawled past me. I hollered for Loic to come look. Of course there are photos....
I have learned from the owner how to strengthen my feet, which, she says, are connected to my diabetes. The orthotics I stopped wearing had made my feet really weak, and created horrible knee pain and limitation in my right knee. I still am unable to sit cross-legged in meditation, but at least my entire body has been pain-free here!
The owner has also said to another resident, Letitia, that we must learn to move from our organs, mainly our intestines, instead of our limbs-- the intestines are the first thing to form in the fetus, and if we learn to move and breathe from them, we can increase our vitality and prevent a lot of dysfunction and pain. I am intrigued and already I am feeling good employing what is perhaps our true "core".
I've been told by Mateo and others that we are just on the fringe of what is known as a Blue Zone, or a place in the world, independent of it's monetary wealth, is a place of happiness and longevity. Some people think it is because the water here is some of the best quality in the world. So I am drinking from the tap for the first time since I was 12. But I think there is more to it-- the culture is a healthy one, and like the Italians, the Ticos know how to be content and slow down.
I have been covering myself in Lavendar oil at bedtime, to prevent some tiny bugs from biting me at night, and it works like a charm. It has the added benefit of knocking me out like a tranquilizer. I can't keep my eyes open after slathering it on. The blend called "Purification" has been fabulous for warding off mosquitoes, which are pretty scarce anyway here in the dry season. But since I am running out of it, I keep it for when I get a bite and apply a drop to that. Takes away itch and sting immediately. Amazing stuff.
We have mastered the art of hitchiking, safe and very common here, so that we can get into the towns for provisions when we need to. We meet a lot of interesting people this way-- local Ticos, Italians, Germans, French, a Colombian couple here on holiday, and of course, Americans vacationing.
I am loving Loic more and more, and despite the bumps we've had, really enjoy being around him and being with him. My dear friend Michele said we would resolve our conflict and learn how to blend-- be the Yin and Yang. I told Loic I was the Yin to Yang, and have addressed him as Monsieur Yang or something like that. It feels good to acknowledge that although we are so different we can be very good partners and compliment eachother.
More to come!
With that said, our journey through Costa Rican towns chronologically has been thus: San Jose, in the hills- La Fortuna and then the ranching town of Tilaran, then traveling through Puntarenas, where we caught the ferry to the Nicoya Peninsula on the Pacific coast to end up in the largely hippie/ beachbum/ and rasta town of Montezuma. We are currently situated halfway between Montezuma and the outpost town of Cabuya, on the Southern most tip of the Peninsula. In the past two weeks we have lived constantly about 30 meters away from the ocean.
Already I am feeling like a different person. It's hard to be able to convey everything.
Many days went by, along the coast here, where it was too hot to do much; getting hot by 8 a.m., and not cooling off until about 5 p.m. Some days it wouldn't peacefully cool off until the wee hours of the morning. One can begin to understand the "art of doing nothing", as the Italians say, which has been fine with me as I've been too tired and lie in a hammock in the shade if I can.
In Montezuma, Danielle took us to see two waterfalls, both with cold, fresh water, and they felt so refreshing. The ocean does too, but it's still pretty warm, and then one wants to rinse off the salt. One of the waterfalls is called, "La Cascada de Los Piedras Coloradas", or the Waterfall of the Colored Stones, and they are amazing gems. The entire shore line is one big treasure chest, filled with amazing stones and crystals, and shells of all varieties, including pukas and other items with naturally formed holes. So many wear the sea of jewels on themselves.
We met a meditation teacher, who ended up privately guiding us (Loic and I) in meditation at dusk on the beaches, daily for about a week. I was so delighted that Loic went out of his way to participate in this, without any prompting from me. This fulfilled a secret dream of mine for Loic and I to meditate together, and I hope that we can pick it up again, soon. The first or second time we meditated with Mateo, it was a larger group sit at Viktoras Kulvinskas'house in the hills (the raw food guru and Danielle's mentor and employer here--she's been his personal assistant). We had another, although distant, view of the ocean on this open hut-like veranda, and it was the first time in years that I had a floating sensation, and transcendant perception of consciousness while meditating.
At one point during the meditation I peeked at Loic, who was sitting next to me, and saw his hands resting on his knees. He looked very beautiful. I don't think I could have been happier, more peaceful, or felt more alive at that point. I began to cry towards the end, out of joy, and as we were completing, Danielles' kitten "Puma" crawled onto my lap and fell asleep. It was all such a precious gift.
I feel that I have been detoxifying in my mind and body. Where we are staying is called, "Estudio Los Almendros", and the owner has let us rent one of the tiny screened in cabins. This is my sanctuary in the jungle. We have been greeted just outside of our "hut" by families of Howler and Capuchin Monkeys, and one day a group of Agouti, which is a brite orange-brown cross between a ground hog and a wombat. And the iguanas, geckos, other lizards on the trees and ground-- everywhere. Last night while preparing dinner in the kitchen house, a tarantula crawled past me. I hollered for Loic to come look. Of course there are photos....
I have learned from the owner how to strengthen my feet, which, she says, are connected to my diabetes. The orthotics I stopped wearing had made my feet really weak, and created horrible knee pain and limitation in my right knee. I still am unable to sit cross-legged in meditation, but at least my entire body has been pain-free here!
The owner has also said to another resident, Letitia, that we must learn to move from our organs, mainly our intestines, instead of our limbs-- the intestines are the first thing to form in the fetus, and if we learn to move and breathe from them, we can increase our vitality and prevent a lot of dysfunction and pain. I am intrigued and already I am feeling good employing what is perhaps our true "core".
I've been told by Mateo and others that we are just on the fringe of what is known as a Blue Zone, or a place in the world, independent of it's monetary wealth, is a place of happiness and longevity. Some people think it is because the water here is some of the best quality in the world. So I am drinking from the tap for the first time since I was 12. But I think there is more to it-- the culture is a healthy one, and like the Italians, the Ticos know how to be content and slow down.
I have been covering myself in Lavendar oil at bedtime, to prevent some tiny bugs from biting me at night, and it works like a charm. It has the added benefit of knocking me out like a tranquilizer. I can't keep my eyes open after slathering it on. The blend called "Purification" has been fabulous for warding off mosquitoes, which are pretty scarce anyway here in the dry season. But since I am running out of it, I keep it for when I get a bite and apply a drop to that. Takes away itch and sting immediately. Amazing stuff.
We have mastered the art of hitchiking, safe and very common here, so that we can get into the towns for provisions when we need to. We meet a lot of interesting people this way-- local Ticos, Italians, Germans, French, a Colombian couple here on holiday, and of course, Americans vacationing.
I am loving Loic more and more, and despite the bumps we've had, really enjoy being around him and being with him. My dear friend Michele said we would resolve our conflict and learn how to blend-- be the Yin and Yang. I told Loic I was the Yin to Yang, and have addressed him as Monsieur Yang or something like that. It feels good to acknowledge that although we are so different we can be very good partners and compliment eachother.
More to come!
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